The Intense Devotion Needed to Stay Platinum Blonde
Everything I've learned after five-plus years with this hair color.
There are multiple TikToks that have crossed my feed about being an Asian blonde — the algorithm really does know me too well. One says going from black to blonde hair is a canon event that can’t be interrupted. Another says that an Asian girl means business when she goes blonde. Yet another skewers the different stereotypes of blondes, because not all are equal. And finally, the last goes on about how this hair color becomes an entire identity. Obviously, I deeply relate to all of them.
It’s been over five years since I’ve gone from dark brownish-black long hair to icy, white blonde and I’ve never looked back. It’s wild to think that some people have only known me as a blonde. And it’s even wilder to think that my hair hasn’t turned into a giant crispy, burnt mess. Staying this color requires an intense level of devotion, with the most basic rules being: don’t wash it very often (2x a week max) and don’t use a ton of heat on it. But beyond that, I’ve done some other absurd things in the name of keeping my hair healthy, with the most preposterous being the time I wrapped the Burberry scarf left at my seat during their LFW show around an AirBnB pillow that was too scratchy. I had to protect my hair, okay?
Being that vigilant about taking care of my color and hair has paid off, as my colorist Kirsten Stuke at Suite Caroline, hasn’t told me to stop getting a double process yet. (More from her later, with a ton of tips and important info on the process!) But even so, the pandemic was a big test. At the time my roots were really, really long because the salons were closed. Besides being unsightly, it’s actually a bad thing — the length means it’s trickier to keep hair healthy during the double process. I actually lost giant clumps due to breakage and freaked out. It was no fault of the colorist (not Kirsten, a colleague of hers out in L.A.), it’s simply something that happens when your roots get to be as overgrown as mine were. Thankfully I prefer to keep my hair short anyway (I find that the length gets tangled and strands break off faster from the weight of your hair), so it all sorted itself out over time.
That incident brings me to the advantages I do have: super oily hair that grows very rapidly. When I had my natural color, I’d be forced to wash it daily otherwise it’d turn into a greasy mess. Whoever said you can train your scalp to require less washings is a liar — the only thing that I trained my scalp to do was develop an aggressive case of dandruff. But once I dyed my hair, it was a wonder: I didn’t have to wash my hair every day! It could go up to a week, if I used dry shampoo as my natural oils offered a protective effect. As for the speed in which my roots grew that turned out to be godsend when my hair broke off during the pandemic — I was basically back to baseline by the time I had to go back for a touchup.
And that brings me to the most important thing to note: the process is a pain. It takes a lot of time out of your life. My first time at the salon took 11 hours and now it’s around 5-ish for my roots. And yes, it’s expensive. But the trade off is that I don’t have to do a lot of work beyond sitting with my colorist to feel like my hair has a look. I only need to wash my hair twice a week at most and all I need to do is brush it, with the occasional flat iron treatment if I want it super sleek. It’s high maintenance to be low maintenance.
If you’re interested in going blonde or you want a great colorist, I really recommend Kirsten — soooooo many of her clients are Asian blondes, which goes to show how many of us trust our hair in her very very capable hands. I asked her a bunch of questions on the process so you don’t have to so here’s what she had to say on the process, lightly edited by me.
Who's the best candidate for a double process treatment?
I recommend someone with virgin hair that has no prior color treatments including glosses or single process color. The reason being is that color can last for years depending on how long ago you got it. It’s good to do a test strip with bleach to see how well the hair lifts and if there’s any remaining color. This doesn’t mean it’s impossible to achieve platinum but it might take longer to get to the desired tone.
A very active person that exercises regularly, likes going in the ocean or surfing, and would have a problem with washing their hair less is not an ideal candidate. It’s important to being open to a very specific and sometimes intensive maintenance routine that often means changing their current routines. [Editor’s note: I definitely try to work out regularly and I try to schedule super sweaty workouts like cardio on hair wash days to minimize the number of times I shampoo my hair.]
How do you prepare for a treatment and what should you expect?
Consultations with a colorist are very important as every situation is different. Talk to a professional to discuss what’s possible and the desired results. Once you’ve made your appointment I always recommend my clients come with very dirty hair. Don’t get your hair wet several days before because it washes away the natural oils that protect the scalp from the harshness of the bleach.
Depending on how much hair the client has it can take anywhere from 5-8 hours on the initial day of the bleaching process. Bring entertainment and snacks. The time spent is definitely worth it as it keeps the hair as healthy as possible during the process. I like to avoid using any heat or strong bleaching products that could ultimately comprise the hair. A certain level of discomfort is to be expected but alert your colorist if you feel anything more than an itch or tingle. If you’ve sweat a lot beforehand that could cause a bit more discomfort due to your pores being open.
Last tip: Have a professional stylist dry your hair for you on that first day to reduce damage. When your hair gets wet, it’s in a weakened state so they’ll know what to do. After that avoid wetting it as much as possible so that the hair will regain integrity following your first double process.
What are the most important things for maintenance?
Getting touched up in a timely fashion! The heat from your scalp helps in the lifting process but if the root is too long you could get some banding as the warmth tapers off. Depending on the stylist and how the client’s hair grows, the timing varies but my own preference is 6-8 weeks. Also key is not washing your hair too frequently — it helps maintain the integrity and color as the gloss can fade. Try not to use excessive heat: flatirons are honestly the devil as are curling irons! (Editor’s note: Oops, I do this from time to time.) The same goes for getting blow outs too often. Honestly the best thing you can do for platinum hair is to leave it alone and let your natural oils do their thing.
Finally, use good quality products to maintain the tone and health of the hair. A few products my colorist recommends as well as some I use and love below:
Kirsten loves this gentle cleansing milk if you need to wash your hair more than once a week. “It’s not as stripping or aggressive as a normal shampoo,” she says.
Another shampoo and conditioner combo Kirsten likes is this one by R + Co. Reviewers say it’s very gentle on hair and cleanses without stripping. I definitely will add it to my rotation once I’m finished with my stash of color-safe products.
“A good oil is also important, I like putting it on the ends to help keep them hydrated. This R + Co. one can be used on dry hair daily to add moisture and shine. Keep it away from the roots though,” she says.
And for those oily roots, Kirsten is a fan of this dry shampoo for the last day or two before you wash your hair.
“The most important product you can use as a double process is a good bond builder and my favorite is K18. It replaces your conditioner and isn’t a protein treatment so you can use it every time or as little as every third wash. One caveat: you shouldn’t use any other type of conditioner when using this product as it’ll block the K18, making less effective,” she says.
Kirsten recommended I skip the purple shampoo in favor of purple conditioners, as the latter are less stripping. I love this one by Christophe Robin — it’s a pale purple that leaves my hair super soft while canceling out any brassy tones.
At Kirsten’s old salon, there were a ton of Shu Uemura products and I loved this one so much that I also incorporated it into my routine. I like to spray it on damp hair for added moisture and it also can help protect strands if I do choose to use heat on it.
I’ve gone through several bottles of this Shu Uemura oil — it absorbs nicely and leaves my strands super soft. I like to apply this nightly after I finish my skincare. My logic is, if I’m sealing my serums and moisturizers with face oil, why not do the same for my hair?
I was testing a bunch of products for TZR last year and I absolutely LOVED this shampoo as well as the brand’s conditioner. It smelled like jasmine and allegedly helps with bond repair as well.
I’ve become a fan of oiling my scalp, as per the Ayurvedic tradition. On wash days I’ll add a few droppers worth, massage it into my scalp, and let it absorb as I go about my work (the perks of WFH!). I just like to hedge my bets and ensure my hair is as healthy as it can be.
Yes, I know, it’s a really expensive blow dryer. I’ve had mine for the last five years and it’s truly so so good. I’ll never go to bed with wet hair, it makes for a disastrous tangle in the back of my head. The Dyson dries it fast, so I don’t have to worry about prolonged heat exposure. Plus, it looks super straight and shiny when I’m done.
Technically I haven’t tried this yet and I know the reviews on this are mixed but from what I’ve seen, the Dyson Airstrait is actually pretty ideal for Asian blondes. It’s not hot enough to be as damaging as a flatiron and basically does the job of both my hair dryer and flatiron. I’ll report back after I try it!
I have four of these and both Chris and I prefer to sleep on silk pillowcases. I know, I know, it sounds so spoiled but I swear it makes a difference on my hair. I used to be really nuts and bring one with me when I travel, but I’ve calmed down and just use whatever the hotel provides. Depending on how nice the place is, it usually works out but I’ve also had some weird tangles that required brushing and re-styling with heat.
Speaking of which, a fine bristle brush is really important. I gently brush my hair daily now, I never had to do that with my natural hair!
And finally, a hair towel is also essential. Don’t use the heavy bath towels to wrap your wet platinum strands, the weight will cause breakage. These absorb water quickly and then I just let it air dry before I go to bed.
If you’ve noticed, this newsletter came nearly a week late. I’ve signed on to teach a two week class on streetwear to high school students at The School of the New York Times. The first week really hit me like a ton of bricks, I have to give it up to teachers, it’s a hard job. As much as these teens have learned from me, I’ve definitely learned a fair share from them as well. Anyway, we’ll be back to the normal schedule starting this Sunday! Expect another hodgepodge of mid-summer bits, which may include some stuff that I’ve been influenced into wanting from the teens. See you this weekend!
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