Paris Fashion Week: Chaos & Calm
Paris Fashion Week: Chaos & Calm
Everything that didn't make it into the Japan Day edit.
This PFW dispatch is brought to you by COS. I cannot state enough how much this partnership actually wound up saving me. Not only does it allow me to be able to afford to write this newsletter, it also literally saved me from my packing stupidity. The weather in Paris was between 50-60 degrees daily and much colder at night with wind and rain. I didn’t bring a single warm item beyond three blazers, all of which were too thin for the temperatures. Oh and absolutely no long sleeved shirts — all my tops were all sleeveless. I clearly learned the wrong lessons from last year! Originally I was going to order a few easy tanks and blouses to fold into my fashion week wardrobe but then it turned into holy hell I need sweaters and coats. I swear I almost cried tears of joy when the box arrived at my hotel in Paris on the third day. People like to roll their eyes at these collabs and call them forced but this is the definition of organic because I absolutely needed and wanted to incorporate these pieces. More on them later but first, all of the shows I loved that weren’t Japan Day, in chronological order!
Cecilie Bahnsen
I almost didn’t make the Cecilie Bahnsen show because at the last minute I had to go to the Dries Van Noten show in Dora’s place (she had a meeting). Dries was all the way in the 9th and Cecilie was back by the Palais de Tokyo. It was only 20 minutes by Metro but you never know so suffice to say I was sending some worried texts to their PR team. The reason for my anxiety? For one, I genuinely love the brand. Two, they kindly dressed me for the show, something that I very much appreciate because these are pieces that I truly want to wear. And three, they were collaborating with The North Face, another brand that also holds a special place in my heart. In the end I did make it, thanks to a speedy run to the train the second the Dries show finished.
Cecilie said she drew inspiration from Ingrid Harshbarger, the late designer at The North Face as well as the skeleton flower, a bloom that turns transparent in the rain. Titled The Crux, the name has a two-fold meaning. First, if you’re a rock climber, it refers to the section that once you get past it, you finish the route or problem. It’s your literal speed bump to success. The second meaning, according to Cecilie, is that it refers to the creative process which could make or break the big moment aka the show.
To say that this show was ripped straight from my brain would be an understatement. Puffy gauzy black jellyfish-like looks? Rock climbing? Snowy backgrounds? Please, get out of my head Cecilie! No, but really, this collab was such a genius idea. I love the way that brands are exploring “niche” (I don’t find them niche but that’s a whole other argument) sports and expanding it to new audiences. A caveat though: I hate it when luxury brands hire models that don’t know what the hell they’re doing versus casting actual athletes who could be models themselves. Thankfully Cecilie made it authentic. Not only did the brand cast Olympic silver medalist Brooke Raboutou but they also featured other pros like Molly Thompson-Smith and Solenne Piret. Also in the lineup were other real people from the worlds of ballet, rugby, and more. And on a more personal note: all the climber girls were 5’2” aka my height so I could actually get a sense of what I’d look like in runway styles that were made to fit my build.
Rick Owens
Speaking of shows that I almost didn’t make, I nearly skipped Rick Owens. It had been pouring rain all day and I got drenched when I attempted to take the Metro back from the Mugler show. I was definitely hesitant to head back out because this season the brand decided to return to the backside of the Palais de Tokyo. It’s a lovely outdoor venue but in the heavy downpour? Less so. However, just before 5:30 PM, a miracle happened — the skies cleared and it turned into a stunning evening. I guess even the weather gods like Rick.
Half the fun of a Rick show is the crowd that gathers outside. It’s not about screaming for the celebrities sitting front row. Instead, the kids are here for the fashion and they will do everything from climbing trees or poles to catch a glimpse. Rick gets that desire and curiosity — his press release acknowledged how prior shows, which were held in his home, were exclusionary and against his belief of welcoming individuals into his universe. That’s why he came back to the outside of the Palais de Tokyo, so that the public could experience the theatricality. This sense of community was also reflected in the casting, with 120 models pulled from fashion schools and his circle of collaborators. Who knew that the designer known for darkness had such a warm and fuzzy side?
The other half of a Rick show is the sheer spectacle of the actual production. It always kicks off with a colorful smoke filled opening, as music blares over the sound system. This time it was Wagner’s Liebestod, the dramatic piece that plays at the end of Tristan and Isolde as she weeps over his body. Black clad models who resemble priests are perched on the roof, flinging down floral petals as if blessing us in their own secret rite. And then the models descend down the stairs, making it easy for everyone to get a good view of the looks. Being that there were 120 this time, they were sent out in batches, with each grouping wearing similar looks to highlight both the individuality and versatility of the brand.
Loewe
A Loewe show is best understood not when it walks on the runway but when the brand explains the technique behind pieces. For editors, buyers, and influencers, we get that opportunity at the re-see the next day. But even before that happens, Loewe is savvy enough to release videos on their TikTok immediately following the show that deep dive into the craftsmanship. No one does social media better than them. They can go from hopping on viral trends to educating their audience in mere seconds while still being highly entertaining. It’s a skill few luxury brands are able to negotiate and it works to their advantage.
Speaking of insane techniques, three of my favorites are definitely worth a second look. The first is this wired dress — it’s funny how that’s a trend this season with Prada doing a similar piece that looks as if it’s in motion. The one in the middle is incredible in person as it’s made from feathers and then hand painted. All of the feather looks celebrated artists and artworks ranging from Van Gogh's Sunflowers to Édouard Manet's The Fifer and more. And finally, that shimmering mini on the right was made from sheets of mother of pearl that were cleaned, cut, and pieced together by hand. Incredible work. I know there are a lot of rumors swirling around about Jonathan Anderson’s fate at the brand. It’s been a decade and his contract is up. Will he stay? Will he go to Dior and if he does, how amazing will the couture show be? Clearly I have feelings but time will tell what happens.
Issey Miyake
A short walk from the Loewe show was the Issey Miyake runway presentation. Set in an airy, light-filled pavilion in the Parc Floral de Paris, it was a combination of interior and exterior catwalks, which wound up being fitting given the collection. Titled The Beauty of Paper, the show notes described Satoshi Kondo’s investigation of paper, the ubiquitous material used in everyday living. Even the stools we were sitting on were made from compressed sheets of paper — they were the byproducts of the brand’s pleating technology evidently.
As for the collection itself, it was divided into nine sections. Opening with Eau, like the name implies it’s meant to look like water that flows and glistens. Dreamy and ethereal, with hoods that covered the face, it foreshadowed the closing looks and were among my favorites. From there the show transitioned into Kamiko, which are garments made from washi and created with hemp. They were originally made as prototypes and feel the most avant-garde of the bunch, with trenches and dresses that had oversized shoulders and two-dimensional shapes. Fold to Form, which featured a three-dimensional folded design that brought to mind a box or origami followed suit. It included a fabric that included yarns made from wash and rayon silk, giving it a stretchiness and an angular silhouette that draped across the form.
Ease and Eased as well as Hempen were more colorful sections and then came Wear and Worn, which went back to a more avant-garde aesthetic. Featuring shirts on shirts, it was a quirky playful moment that I really enjoyed. The seventh section was Pressed Flora and felt especially fitting given the setting as it consisted of delicate prints of flowers. Made with a process that actually leaves behind small wrinkles, it’s a nod to how fragile both flowers and materials both are. Cloth and Cord represented the penultimate section, with looks that used whole pieces of fabrics and cotton cord ties to create relaxed, draped shapes. And finally, Shade and Shaded which had some of the most beautiful dresses, with some featuring hoods and veils that called back to the opener. My favorite? The black one, of course.
Miu Miu
When you enter a Miu Miu show, you can always expect a huge crowd outside, screaming for the brand’s slew of celebrity ambassadors. I happened to arrive when Nara Smith was posing outside and let me tell you, that woman is a phenomenon. People love her. As for the actual show space, it changes to complement the theme of the show. For spring 2025 there were newspapers hanging from the ceiling, giving us the impression that we were inside a giant printing press, reinforced by the fact that Polish artist Goshka Macuga’s work was literally a video of a whirring printing press. On our seats were a newspaper with headlines that included “Archaeologists Digging for Answers Unearth Questions” and “Humanities Leader Says Man Should Follow, Not Lead.” Also on seats was a piece of paper that said “the truth has to be found by individual investigation rather than available in commonly distributed sources. Misconceptions and aims to communicate are forever entangled.”
How does that tie into the clothes? Well, according to Mrs. Prada, it doesn’t. Instead it’s a conversation about our times, which to be fair, is especially chaotic with the election looming. And what is a modern woman if not someone who wants to dress however the fuck she pleases? Sure it’s a bit haphazard but that’s precisely the appeal. The mix of track jackets and pencil skirts with heels? Such good styling. I especially loved the little tanks that looked like multiple pieces layered together as well as the low slung trousers and white dresses. Also worth noting are the bizarre tiny socks that cover nothing but the middle of the foot. As someone who has gotten multiple blisters from slides and sandals in that precise spot, it’s a brilliant idea.
Torishéju
There’s no other young designer at Paris Fashion Week that excites me more than Torishéju Dumi and her namesake label. She first showed last year, with Gabriella Karefa-Johnson helping her produce and style her debut. Gabby was quick to track me down and tell me that I would love her work, and wow, did I. From the opening look worn by Naomi Campbell down to the finale, it showcased how cultures can intersect to create something new and exciting. It’s evident that Torishéju appreciates the work of the Japanese avant-garde but infuses her own identity as a British-Nigerian-Brazilian designer into the mix. Whatever she’s doing is clearly working because her debut collection was a part of the last Costume Institute exhibit and Dover Street Market carries her. And who was sitting front row for her latest show? Every major outlet and naturally Adrian Joffe.
For her third season, Torishéju cited La Nef des Fous, a painting by Hieronymous Bosch that showcased the follies of gluttony in a world that was on the verge of social collapse. In her interpretation, the models represent aristocracy on a sinking ship dressed lavishly despite the fact that their world is about to end in disaster. As the show progresses, the looks become more chaotic as panic sets in. Clothes are thrown on haphazardly, fabrics are distressed, and makeup is smeared. My favorite? The looks that drew from the Titanic’s flawed life jackets, consisting of sheer fabrics stuffed with studio offcuts. Keep an eye on her, she’s definitely a new favorite.
What I Wore
The team at Cecilie Bahnsen kindly sent me this dress to wear to the show. I loveeee how sheer and puffy it was but that combination was not exactly appropriate for 60 degrees and rain. I actually made an emergency run to COS the morning before my clothes arrived in order to get a white button down to layer underneath. It definitely saved the outfit and Martin Romero is a genius for snapping this right outside of Dries before I made a mad dash to Cecilie. In retrospect I wish the sleeves weren’t so wrinkled but that’s the reality of running around all day.
Yes, I’m making a cheek heart in that photo because what else would one do when they’re watching a K-Pop group perform? ILLIT are Acne Studios ambassadors and they held a party and mini concert one night. Their song Magnetic is soooo catchy which made me want to go, capture the content, and also do a mini interview for 10 USA. This all-black, mostly leather outfit felt appropriate for an Acne party. I LOVE LOVE LOVE these boots. As someone with juicy, sturdy calves, I’ve NEVER been able to find a pair that fits. These magically do, even if they’re a little on the high side for my short legs. I can’t wait to wear them with skirts and dresses all winter long. As for the jacket, it was the perfect weight with a t-shirt underneath for a brisk evening. I regret to inform you that it’s sold out but this is a similar style that has that same oversized feel. Either way, get the boots, you will not regret it. They fit so well.
What else would I wear to the Issey show besides a Madame T shawl? The original plan was to wear one over a crop top and a matching Pleats Please skirt but I had to pivot to a thin cashmere sweater. I think it actually worked better with a knit underneath, to make it more fall appropriate. This one by COS wound up getting the most wear during the week — besides wearing it to the Issey show, I also changed into it along with sneakers for some evening events. It was the closest I could get to pajamas after long days spent in dressy clothes. One note: the black is nearly sold out but the other colors have plenty of stock. I’m partial to the red, it’s one of the few colors that I do wear.
Sunday was blessedly on the quiet side — no shows just a bunch of re-sees. It was also the coldest day so I had to layer up. The jacket worn over the thin sweater was the perfect combination, especially with these Junya cargo pants. It was casual, cozy, and most of all, comfortable. Sometimes you want to dress for the cameras and sometimes you just want to look stylish yet laidback. This is one of the latter moments.
The original plan was to wear this white shirtdress with this Simone Rocha red embroidered overlay but the cloudy skies called for something moodier and deconstructed. I bought this CdG skirt last year when I was in Paris and it can be worn three ways: as a pencil skirt, a drop crotch-asymmetrical pair of shorts, and as a Prada-esque overlay. I opted for the overlay look so you can see a bit of the white peeking out. Now that I’m looking at these photos, I actually really like the combo — it’s kinda nuts but works.
And finally Chanel day consisted of me wearing Chanel, albeit in my own particular way. Fashionphile kindly loaned me a bag that perfectly complemented my outfit while I finally was able to break out these low stacked heel pumps that I bought last year. They were comfortable-ish — I think nothing feels good after 12k steps besides sneakers but at least these heels made it that far! On top, a slouchy COS cashmere sweater that not only kept me warm because it was 55 degrees that morning, but gave a nice textural contrast to these sequin CdG shorts I bought in Tokyo. The knit is fairly heavy and thick, which is why I get why it sold out — it’s a really good value. That said, here’s a similar option in red and beige that would be equally as good for those who wear color.
If you read this all the way through, thank you for supporting me! Working with brands like COS helps me keep this newsletter afloat. I’ll be back this weekend with my Portugal recap — I headed there right after Paris for a wedding and it was a wonderful four days filled with food and wine. And gasp…I even wore COLOR.
Requisite disclaimer here: If you click on a link, I may get a small commission which helps support this newsletter. Also, sharing is greatly appreciated!
Luuuuuuurve the Madam T shawl...
Thank you for this detailed recap. I am exhausted!