Musings From Milan Fashion Week

Prada, Prada, Prada.

The first 48 hours of Milan Fashion Week was full of highs and lows. Getting off a red-eye with hours to spare before Fendi was a bit rough and my outfit reflected that. I think I had PTSD from last year, when it was 80+ degrees daily so after checking the weather, which said it would be in the 70s for both Paris and Milan, I packed only lightweight clothes. That was a lie, it was in the low 60s and I was COLD. So my outfit that day was hastily cobbled together with whatever could keep me the warmest. Another low? My dumbass dropped my phone in a manner that I spent the next three days with a semi-functional phone that vacillated between completely unresponsive or look as if the apps were possessed by a poltergeist hell-bent on inducing a seizure. Thankfully I managed to get an appointment at the Apple store and I’m back just in time for Paris, which arguably is the time for this newsletter to THRIVE.

As for the highs of those initial two days? Welllllll, I may have gone into Prada and made an insane purchase. I fell in love with the ribbon dresses from fall 2024 and there was one that was absolutely perfect and in my size. And being that I also happened to have a black-tie optional wedding, what’s more fitting than a dress covered in black ties? Or at least that’s what I’m telling myself. Anyway, there’s a whole backstory to this purchase that I’ll get into later.

The other highlight was definitely dinner on the first night at Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone. The figs and prosciutto? Amazing. The bottagra pasta? Perfect. Granted I also was starving but it definitely was a nice way to end a very jet lagged day.

When it comes to the shows, Milan is definitely full of historic brands with their own distinctive aesthetic. I can appreciate plenty of them from a general fashion POV but as for what I really loved, it’s a much smaller edit. Let’s get into it.

London Fashion Week is All About Simone

Cue the NYFW Highlight Reel

Prada

Of course, I have to start with one of my favorite brands and thankfully I got my new phone in time for the re-see so I was able to take a ton of photos. This was by far one of my favorite collections from Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons in a long time. I know a lot of people said that about Spring 2023, which featured the gauzy chiffon dresses that appear to float as they walked but no, they are wrong. This is the one. It has all of the quirkiness and creativity you crave from the brand. Mrs. Prada makes you realize what it means to have vision and not just be subject to the whims of whatever passing trend is floating about. Not to dredge up that personal style debate again but this is what people mean when they say someone has a distinctive style, where dressing is an art form.

In a way referencing the internet makes sense for this collection. The show notes open with the following quote, which feels especially prescient for our times:

We exist in an era of extreme information, immersed in a constant stream of content. Our consumption of the infinite panorama offered by the Internet is driven by algorithms, finite sequences of instructions that circumscribe the decidable through logic in a fundamentally illogical world. If that interpretation posits an architecture of understanding, in contrast humanity can be defined by its unpredictability, a rejection of the derivative and expected.

Our online life is one giant digital echo chamber and I’m certainly guilty of creating my own — the entire point of this newsletter is to find those who might preferred my take on fashion. Real life is messy and my offline world is full of people who think the brands I like and the way I dress is absolutely insane. But isn’t that clash and tension more interesting that having a group of people surround you nodding yes to your every look? Maybe it’s my desire to argue (and hopefully win said argument!), but that discourse makes fashion much more interesting.

Philosophy aside, let’s get down to the details. First of all, the archival shoes! It’s a testament to the trend-less appeal of this brand that all of Prada’s archival shoes are back. From the flat leather criss-cross sandals first seen in spring 1996 to striped heels from fall 2008 to platform espadrille oxfords from spring 2011 to the rubber dipped Mary Jane heels of fall 2012, they looked equally as relevant now as they did when they first debuted on the runway. If I had to choose a favorite, I’d want the striped heels and the loafers from this collection — the hardware details alone make it super distinctive and special. Let’s hope they get produced because there’s never a guarantee.

I’m not a bag person for the most part but I might have to change that for this new season. Their newest style is in the middle and definitely my favorite of the bunch. Featuring an East West orientation, similar to the Alaia Teckel in a way but with the little touches at the top that make it distinctively Prada. It’s a call back to the vintage detailing and not the triangle logo that we’ve come to associate with the brand. Other standouts include the Buckle bag, complete with gold strap as well as the Cleo, reimagined in a larger sizes and featuring the same screen printing as seen on the miniskirts.

Speaking of details, seeing the runway photos or video, or even my view from my 3rd row seat does not do it justice. That tweed and fur collar coat? Those belted trousers? All tromp l’oeil. The jacket is screen printed to appear textured while the skinny paints have a painted on brown belt, complete with buckle. It’s so trippy yet exactly what you’d expect for Prada by taking existing shapes we’re familiar with and giving them new life.

Also worth noting are the opening floral dress, the gauzy numbers layered over polos, and this pink trench coat. They all feature wiring throughout, creating the illusion of perpetual motion, as if you’re traveling with your own wind machine. Again, what an innovative idea that is surely destined to be an editorial favorite.

And finally, the one piece that I have my eye on are the skirts wit the belt and garter detail. I love how it manages to be high-waisted and low slung simultaneously. All of the metal rings in the collection lent it an edge for those who are not into the brand’s more feminine offerings. Like people have been saying, it’s truly a collection for everyone, with plenty to love. One last note: the sunglasses are insane but also I think super fun?

Bottega Veneta

Much has been said about the Bottega Veneta show, from the adorable animal beanbag chairs that lined the runway (they’re available for sale and cost 8000 Euros in case you were wondering) to the intricately detailed accessories like the gigantic Richard Scarry book rendered in leather. Consisting of a whopping 74 looks, this is another example of a collection that needs to be seen in the flesh to really appreciate the details.

Per the show notes, Matthieu Blazy looked back to childhood, where there was adventure in the everyday and the feeling that anything could happen, no matter how fantastical. That’s nowhere more evident than having celebrities like Kendall Jenner, A$AP Rocky, and Michelle Yeoh sit in those little animal chairs. It’s kinda silly but wouldn’t that be exactly what a child would imagine a fashion show to be like? The same mentality applies to the clothes — it’s intended to be deliberately out of proportion as if a child were playing dress up. Blazy envisioned a cast of characters whether it’s an Italian industrialist, a teen roving aimlessly, kids in their parents’ suits, or a chic Milanese woman going to the supermarket.

But if there’s one reason to go to the re-see, it’s to see the way Blazy plays with materials up close. Everything has been manipulated in surprising ways. Those raffia-like hats and boas? They’re printed leather that has been cut up finely to merely resemble raffia and it feels soft and supple to the touch. Leather, being a mainstay for the brand, is the medium of choice. It’s even seen in the evening dresses, including one that transforms the skin into paillettes. Blazy turns merino wool in jacquards to imitate stonewash denim, heavyweight cotton weave into a grunge flannel, and more. It’s couture level work — you only need to look at the panels on this dress, the fluff on this dark pink coat as proof. Other favorites include the top and skirt covered in little metal matchsticks that swing as they move — there’s also a necklace and a pair of earrings if you want to complete the whole set.

Finally, the accessories: the brand’s bread and butter. There were bodega bags and bouquets of flowers, all made with leather and I think either silk or nylon, given how thin and light they were. Classics like the Sardine bag get an animalistic touch, with the incredible fringe on this reminding me of a moth’s wings while the Andiamo has a top handle now. And speaking of animals, there were plenty from the frog brooches to the embellishment on shoes while another pair of mules brought to mind a rabbit, with its bunny ear details.

Lastly, I have to say it’s been so fun having the Leica temporarily. The camera lets me capture the textures and colors in a way that an iPhone cannot. I don’t dare ask how much this Sardine bag is because in reality, maybe one or two will ever be produced. At least I got a good picture?

Jil Sander

The Jil Sander show was another big one, clocking in at 71 looks. For this season Lucie and Luke Meier cited strength, imagination, and the ability to find affinities as their sources of inspiration. The duo referenced Greg Girard’s photos as well as the nightlight of pre-technological Hong Kong. I have mixed feelings about overt Chinese influences — it takes a lot for a non-Chinese person to do it justice. Do I think those nods in this collection were good? Eh, I get that they genuinely love it but it still falls a bit short. That said, where the Chinese influences did get me were the references to Hong Kong, including what looked like vintage magazines printed on skirts and dresses. That felt a bit more inspired than the silk and tassel looks.

What I did love however, was the opening look with the coat appearing to be multiple hues, depending on where the light struck. That type of futuristic tailoring feels fresh. Another highlight? The knits trimmed in silver beads. I loved how they swished as they walked — clothing with jewelry built in always wins me over.

Tod’s

I just want to note that these Tod’s loafers are so cool. The ring details give it a youthful freshness that we haven’t seen before in the brand and I’m eager to see how they’ll be received come next spring. Based on my DMs, plenty of you guys liked them as well!

What I Wore

Forgive my expression, I don’t know what I was doing exactly but the location for the Boss show was incredible and I needed a photo. On the second day (first full day I guess?) I went for my warmest-ish outfit, with this Prada jacket, skirt, and sandal combination. It was weirdly appropriate since looks at Boss were equally as corporate-inspired.

On Prada day, I had to wear the new dress along with the brand’s Mary Janes. A little story about this piece: it’s a version of the runway ribbon look. According to the sales associate only 10-11 of each size were made worldwide. At last check, only two existed in all of Italy and one in the United States. So yes, it was very very expensive but worth every last penny as collector’s item. And apparently, none of the influencers wore the ribbon dresses to the show so it made it even more special. I’m extremely happy to own it and you will be seeing me in it ALL THE TIME, if only to recoup my costs.

And finally, for my one black tie-ish event, I wound up landing on this Comme des Garçons dress that I bought earlier in the year in Tokyo. It’s so fascinating how this somehow magically springs back to shape no matter how you stuff it into a suitcase. The added bonus is that it can be dressed up or down — I wore it to London Fashion Week under a blazer and with Simone Rocha platforms for the day. Here, it becomes gala appropriate courtesy of my platform Prada heels and shiny Burberry mesh Knight bag.

On that note, see you in PARIS! My favorite city of them all. Because it’s 10 days worth of fashion, it will be split up into two parts. Japan Day gets its own ode (obviously!) and then everything else will be rolled into a recap at the end.

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