London Fashion Week is All About Simone

J.W. Anderson, Standing Ground, and Chopova Lowena were also highlights.

I skipped London Fashion Week — a rarity since I often go. But through a combination of factors, it made more sense to fly into Milan before continuing to Paris, and finally wind up in Portugal for a wedding. And to be honest, it’s probably better for my overall health as well. This time last year I did the whole circuit and I don’t think I was coherent by the time the Miu Miu show wrapped. It sounds so cliché for fashion people to complain about how tired they are but I definitely was juggling too much. I wanted to see it all, make sure I wrote up everything that I needed to cover, and also juggle my other consulting clients. It was a recipe for disaster. This time around, I’m going to try to be more mindful and actually be grateful for any gaps in the schedule so I can catch up on work and rest.

That being said, I’m a little bummed to missing out on London this season. The festivities kicked off with a massive H&M event on Thursday night that was secretly a Charli XCX concert. It’s an impressive feat for a brand that has had its ups and downs over the years. They bet big on Charli XCX years ago (in recent memory she attended their Mugler collab event circa March 2023) and now it’s paying off. You couldn’t escape social media without seeing clips from that night and chances are you probably have one of her songs stuck in your head as we speak. Sure, it’s not fashion with a capital F but the spectacle and entertainment factor of it all has its own appeal. Sometimes you just want something fun and that’s okay.

Cue the NYFW Highlight Reel

But of course, there were fashion with a capital F moments that I really enjoyed, even from afar. It’s easy to guess which brands caught my eye — I am nothing if predictable so read on for the looks, shows, and outfits of London Fashion Week.

Simone Rocha

There’s no show in London that I’m more sad about missing than Simone Rocha. Having been to her runway presentations for nearly a decade (damn did I just age myself?), minus some pandemic years, it never fails to capture my heart. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a collection that wasn’t supremely well thought out and full of emotion. Cathy Horyn mentioned years ago in a profile on The Cut that Simone would be a natural heir to Rei Kawakubo and on that note, she does sit front row at all the shows on Japan Day so make of that what you will! Whether or not Simone will ever takes the reins at Comme des Garçons, her work stands a testament to her ability to create clothing that makes you feel something. This season was no different as her show notes opened with the words screaming, crying, laughing, dying, flirting. Strong emotions that can be interpreted both positively and negatively, depending on the context. We all know that it’s 100000% positive in my book.

For spring 2025, the collection is an exploration of the idea of lifting up the curtain, the moments between progress and perfection that lead up to the performance. The carnation replace the roses from last spring — a deliberate choice as it’s the bloom of choice for men at formal events. They were tucked into tulle dresses, clutched in the arms as bouquets, and embroidered onto suiting. I especially loved the creative use of carnation petals as a mask on model’s faces.

Simone’s pieces have always been unisex in its own way, with slouchy suiting looking equally at home on both genders while this season’s baggy jeans would be a fitting choice whether worn with a bralette or oversized tee. I loved seeing her take on more casual fabrics such as denim, mainly because the result is anything but everyday. This look with the tiny satin top and tulle bag? Perfection.

As for the accessories, the Crocs partnership is back, which is destined to sell out but I have my eye on those oversized tulle clutches — they’re so absurd yet fun. I also will note that her ballet flats, with their squared-off toes, will likely be popular too. And finally, the earrings: dangly and dramatic. I wish I had them for my black-tie event in Milan! So yes, Simone had me screaming, laughing, crying, and most of all, wanting.

JW Anderson

Last season’s JW Anderson show was not my favorite, with the granny wigs and comically oversized coats. It was especially disappointing because prior to that, spring 2024, I LOVED. That was the collection that featured clay hoodies, feather-trimmed bombers, and surreal hoop dresses. Well, spring 2025 definitely was an upgrade. Maybe he just does certain seasons better? Whatever the reason, it was filled with looks that felt true to his manipulations of the human form through the use of materials and shape. In the show notes he says that setting strict boundaries is a liberating act and it’s evident in the clothes — when you give yourself guidelines, you actually have so much freedom to innovate. In his case it means these bubble dresses that harken back to prior pieces that feature the same inflated silhouette as well as the exaggerated woven pieces that also throw back to glittery woven skirts from spring 2024.

To Anderson this collection is an exploration into modern prettiness and that line stuck with me. When we think of the word “pretty” certain cliches come to mind — the traditional trappings of femininity which serve to reinforce outdated notions of style. It’s limiting in a way that doesn’t inspire creativity or individuality. Maybe that’s why I fell for this collection. To note: I find that the dead on, traditional runway images don’t do it justice. These overhead shots on Jonathan’s IG are a better illustration of the way the shapes jut out from the body in interesting and visually striking ways. That’s the problem with not being at the show or watching the livestream due to the time difference — you miss so much nuance that comes from seeing looks in motion and from all angles.

I’m curious to see how these balloon minis and tutu-like leather skirts translate into commercial pieces. I hope they don’t get diluted too much. And while I know the woven piece will likely be an editorial-only look that will never be produced, here’s hoping for a version. Finally, one last note: this blue twisted dress that actually reminds me of a knotted navy Comme des Garçons dress that I found secondhand in Tokyo. Do I style with low boots in the future? Perhaps.

Chopova Lowena

After skipping last season, Chopova Lowena came back with a runway show. As usual, the casting was diverse with a surprise — SSENSE’s Steff Yotka’s dad! Anyone who follows her on Instagram knows that Walt Yotka has opinions on fashion that he texts his daughter, so of course, it makes sense he would be walking a brand that Steff is known to wear. I love when organic moments like this happen, it’s so wholesome. Also, another model is Dover Street Market Paris’ Nick Tran, who looked amazing in an all-gray look complete with copious amounts of hair jewelry.

Speaking of hair jewelry, the bows were my favorite detail. I know people have been experiencing coquette fatigue but this over-the-top spin on the trend, complete with the studs and other jewelry, make it feel fresh again. It’s maximalist and far from being twee. The girl (or woman) who opts to tie her hair back with one of these is smoking a cigarette and giving you the middle finger when you try to tell her what to do. If I wasn’t leaving tomorrow, I’d be SO tempted to recreate a version of this for Europe. Maybe next season….

Standing Ground

Standing Ground is a new label to know. Founded by Michael Stewart, it’s already won an LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize this year, which is impressive. I first learned of the brand through Phway Su Aye, the founder of my favorite fragrance brand Gabar. She wore a custom gown for her wedding and it was draped to perfection. Standing Ground is the epitome of slow luxury — everything is made to order, making this runway debut a way to showcase his pieces to potential clients. Elegant, minimal, but never boring, the details are what really set it apart. Stewart has a way with jersey as well as beading and leather that curve around the human body that simultaneously feel of the moment while futuristic. It’s evening wear for a woman who doesn’t want your standard gown. Here’s to hopefully seeing more of his creations on the red carpet, because they’re a cerebral alternative to all the tired Old Hollywood clichés. Can you tell I’m having a visceral reaction to some of the Emmy gowns and how positively bland they are?

Toga

Toga is one of those highly underrated Japanese brands and I don’t know why! Designed by Yasuko Furuta, they returned to the London Fashion runways for the first time in four years. Known for combining Western influences with Japanese sensibilities, I find their take on cowboy culture is more subtle. For spring 2025 Furuta cited several points of reference from Claire Denis’ Beau Travail to Francis Alÿs’ performance piece Paradox of Praxis: Sometimes Making Something Leads to Nothing, and Clarice Lispector’s novel A Hora da Estrela. How that translated was clothing that she described as being built upon labor, creating beauty from order. I interpreted as a riot of color and texture, with accessories being a strong suit. The diaphanous jackets worn over shirting and mini skirts with kitten heels? Sold. I’m also a fan of that gigantic fuzzy skirt with equally as large leather bow as well as the black-and-white dress. The best part of all of Toga’s pieces is that they tend to be more in the contemporary price range, making these shoes relatively affordable, especially on sale. It’ll be interesting to see what SSENSE picks up next season.

As you read this, I’m headed to Milan so expect some sort of roundup at the end of the week. In the meantime, a brief interlude to talk about egos, imposter syndrome, and how fashion week is a humbling experience unless you have a bit (read: a lot) of delulu. See you on later this week!

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