Glenn Martens' Margiela Debut Was The Talk of Haute Couture

Plus Schiaparelli's black lipstick, Demna says goodbye, and Iris van Herpen's aquatic creatures.

A quick PSA before I begin the newsletter: MyTheresa is having a GREAT sale at the moment, especially if you’re a Simone Rocha or Noir Kei Ninomiya fan. On top of their markdowns, they’re offering another 20% on all purchases over $350. Below, a few of my favorites:

Simone Rocha bow-detail cotton jersey T-shirt, was $280, now $196 (30% off)

I own two versions of this black Simone Rocha bow tee (in tank form, one of the few “expensive” tank tops I think are justified) and now it’s marked down to $196!

Simone Rocha Ruffled mesh ballet flats, was $800 now $240 (70% off0

I also love these mesh ballet flats that are marked down to $240. The sheerness coupled with the ruffles at the sole keep it interesting. From my experience, her shoes tend to run large so go down one size.

Simone Rocha gathered taffeta miniskirt, was $755 now $362.40 (52% off); Simone Rocha Bow-detail embellished ballet flats, was $915 now $439.20 (52% off)

I’ve been obsessed with bubble miniskirts lately and this version comes in both black (for $362) and red (for $422). Also, take a moment for the ballet flats, which are now $549, in this photo. Featuring bows and a red rhinestone flower, the mesh design can work equally as well for weddings as they do for everyday.

Noir Kei Ninomiya ruffle tulle top, was $680 now $326 (52% off)

A sheer, ruffly tulle top that billows out from the body? Obviously this is the first piece that caught my eye. I almost didn’t want to put it into the list because I’m considering adding it to my cart. It also comes in white.

On that note, let’s move on to the real purpose of this newsletter: a couture breakdown. Going forward, runway recaps will be paywalled since they take a lot more time and thought than my usual shopping roundups. Thank you again for everyone who pays to subscribe, I’m always very grateful that this little newsletter has found its readership.

How do you follow up John Galliano’s Maison Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection? You know, the one that went viral courtesy of its teetering models, all corseted to an inch of their lives and covered in doll-like makeup courtesy of Path McGrath. Or better yet, how do you continue the legacy of Martin Margiela himself? This is the man who put Antwerp on the map as a home to avant-garde design. He was able to go from creating luxurious minimal garments at Hermès to conceiving boundary pushing looks like his hair coat to even offering wildly successful commercial pieces like the Tabi boots. Hell, he even had an H&M collab. This is to say, Glenn Martens had a legacy to uphold as took on the role of creative director. And based on everyone’s reactions, he most certainly lived up to expectations.