This time last year I was drinking mezcal and eating mole nonstop in Oaxaca. My favorite mezcal brand (I promise they’re not paying me to say this, I genuinely do love them), Agua Magica, had invited a group of journalists to experience Guelaguetza, a yearly festival in July that highlights the indigenous cultures of the region. Guelaguetza derives from the Zapotec language and roughly translates to “reciprocal exchanges of gifts and services.” This generosity is evident in the parades that take over the streets as well as the main event, an hours long performance featuring regional dances, that takes place in Oaxaca’s big outdoor stadium on the last two Mondays of the month. You’ll see people pouring out shots of mezcal for one another or flinging little presents like woven tortilla warmers, fans, and more into the crowd.
If you’re looking to go somewhere that doesn’t involve an overpriced ticket to Europe in July, I recommend making a trip to Oaxaca for this experience, it’s truly so special. But even if you don’t head there for Guelaguetza, the city is an ideal visit if you don’t want to venture too far for rich cultural history, great food, and unique handicraft. I only spent four days there but managed to squeeze in as much as I could. Don’t consider this guide exhaustive, it’s more of a curated list of things I was fortunate enough to experience with some people who were either from Oaxaca or frequented it often.
Where to Shop
Two things I made a point to buy in Oaxaca: candles and barro negro or black mud pottery. And then somehow I accidentally wound up buying a cool t-shirt for Chris too, with graphics by a local artist. Here’s where to go if you want to do the same.
Cooperativa 1050º
Esquina con, Xólotl, Rufino Tamayo 800-c, Centro, 68000
Founded by artisans from seven communities in Oaxaca, Puebla and Chiapas, this ceramics shop is a collective that is a part of Innovando la Tradición, a non-profit organization dedicated to keeping the pottery tradition alive. All of the pieces in our AirBnb were sourced from here and the store happened to be a few minutes away as well so I made it a point to stop by to pick up a few pieces of barro negro pottery. The selection is extensive and if you’re not into black, there are other neutral tones as well. I was immediately drawn to these bowls and bought a large one along with a matching plate. The only caveat: they’re not dishwasher safe so I use them sparingly because I’m lazy to hand wash. The shop does ship to the United States for a small fee, in case you want one and can’t make it down there.
Casa Viviana
Abasolo s/n, Centro, 70420 Teotitlán del Valle
Teotitlan del Valle, a village that’s about a 45 minute drive from the center of the city, is known for their artisans. Depending on how much Spanish you speak, you can get there via cab or bus but if you don’t speak any like I do, a bi-lingual driver is probably your best bet. When you do get there, the area is full of beautiful textile shops but the real standout spot, at least if you’re short on luggage space, is Casa Viviana. Doña Viviana painstakingly makes each elaborate beeswax candle by hand. They’re extremely delicate and my black one broke en route home so try to hand carry if you do get one.
Kiyo Cafe
C. Porfirio Díaz 212-Local B, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000
My original plan was to go to Boulenc for their almond croissants, which are supposed to be amazing, but the line was too long. I wound up getting a coffee and a guava pastry at Kiyo, a cafe across the street. Besides espressos and croissants, the shop also has its own line of clothes as well as homeware. The vibe is equal parts minimal and quirky, a Oaxaca version of Colette in many ways. I picked up an interesting black-and-white graphic tee for Chris but if I saw this vest there, I definitely would have bought that for myself too. While you’re browsing the clothes, don’t forget to toss in a bag of coffee beans too.
Xaquixe
Calle de José María Pino Suárez 104, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000
Made with 95% recycled glass, Xaquixe is a sustainable homeware brand that works with local restaurants and hotels to use discarded oil to fuel their kilns. The result are these beautiful tumblers and pitchers in an array of hues, although I prefer to the classic clear ones. Being that every piece is handblown, you’ll see slight imperfections, highlighting the people behind the products. The official website doesn’t ship but Goodee stocks an extensive array in the United States.
Tienda Q
C. de Manuel Bravo 109, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000
I’d be remiss not to include an actual concept store in this list. Tienda Q is located right by all the shops and you’ll immediately spot it by it’s sparse, well curated interior. No photos are allowed inside so I had to dig around to find this one. The selection reminds me a bit of Rachel Comey or Apiece Apart, with prices to match — a black dress I liked was close to $500, so it’s comparable to New York City shops. I passed on the dress but it was nice to wander around the space as well as its accompanying gallery.
Where to Eat and Drink
I feel like everyone has the same five places on their list and to be fair, mine is not much different. Because I was here with a group that planned out nearly every meal so I didn’t eat as much spontaneous street food as I would have normally so this list skews more restaurant heavy. In retrospect, I guess that schedule provided to be a blessing in disguise because I went wild in Mexico City and my stomach hated me for days. This time around, no stomach issues! Anyway, here’s a rundown of a few spots that I’d return to in a heartbeat.
Alfonsina
C. García Vigil 183, San Juan Bautista la Raya, Oaxaca, 71232
Alfonsina was my favorite meal of the trip and The World’s 50 Best Restaurants agree that it’s mind blowingly delicious. Located nearish the airport, it’s literally located in the courtyard of chef Jorge León’s childhood home. You’ll see his mom Elvira working and everything is incredible. It was hands down the best mole of my life — super complex flavors and rich without being too heavy. I also loved the tamale wrapped in hoja santa, a fragrant herb that smells like fennel, eucalyptus, pepper, and nutmeg. Just go for breakfast or lunch, you won’t regret it.
Criollo
Francisco I. Madero 129, Santa María del Marquesado, Centro, 68000
Everyone always mentions Criollo when you talk about restaurants in Oaxaca and I get why it’s also on the 50 Best list. Between the vibe, carefully curated menu, and head chef Enrique Olvera of Pujol, Cosme, and Atla fame, it’s destined for greatness. Is it better than Alfonsina? I don’t think so but I still enjoyed my meal here. This pork belly on top of mole was of course one of my favorites, as was the mole negro. There were many courses but I only took photos of the two moles, so I guess that’s what I liked best!
One funny thing worth noting: the garden in the back is full of chickens and rabbits. I was entertained trying to chase them down for cute photos. They were not amused.
Asador Bacanora
5 de Mayo 614, Barrio de Jalatlaco, 68080
Our first lunch was at Asador Bacanora and while the mole wasn’t quite as good as the other spots, I did enjoy our meal here. One highlight was the aguachile made with squid ink and chicatana, which are tiny ants. Being a person who screams the second she sees a bug, I’m shocked that I was not only able to eat them but also enjoy them with the shrimp and tuna. I don’t even think I knew there were bugs in there? It just tasted savory and full of umami. Also another favorite was the panna cotta shaped like a banana which was light and creamy. Unfortunately I don’t see it on the menu anymore.
Sabine Sabe
5 de Mayo 209, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000
Speaking of eating bugs, the chapulines tacos at Sabina Sabe were another highlight. Chapulines are grasshoppers but they’re mashed up and covered in this smoky chili oil so it honestly reminded me of eating some tacos with a ton of chili crisp. This bar is also on the 50 Best list and the mezcal cocktail I had there was not too sweet and refreshing. I wish I could tell you what else was in it but this was after a full day of drinking so things were a bit hazy. The other top bar in Oaxaca is Selva which I skipped out on, because I was too tired the night everyone went but I think they enjoyed it?
Two quick mentions to end this roundup: Tacos del Carmen, one of the few street spots I managed to try, is definitely worth a stop. We had just finished breakfast and passed the vendor on our way to Mercado Benito Juárez so I wasn’t too hungry when we got a few to share but I somehow managed to eat my half of the pork taco. They’re fairly large and filling though. And speaking of the Mercardo, make sure to get packets of mole negro to bring home! You only need one per chicken (or in my case, I used one with several packages of thigh meat) and you’ll have enough to last you several meals. I also bought a little jar of chapulines in chili oil — a spoonful on takeout tacos or on eggs makes it infinitely tastier.
Ugh, this list made me want to book another trip to Oaxaca. The closest I’m getting is ordering some mole for dinner tomorrow unfortunately. With that, see you on Wednesday, which is a deep dive on tank tops, including the DISSH ones that everyone keeps asking me about. I’m a fan but there are a few caveats to know before you buy them. More to come in that newsletter!
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